Copywrite and Quilters

 

copyright-symbol

 

At Threads and Patches we are occasionally asked to photocopy patterns or we hear groups of quilters saying ‘ you buy the pattern and then make copies for us all’ . This is why firstly I refuse to copy a pattern that is not ours, and I challenge groups who choose to breech copyright in this way.

Why is this not OK?

Firstly it is breaking the law

below is a link that explains the rules

http://www.equilters.com/library/quilt_issues/quilt_copyright.html

But the main reason I feel,  you should not copy patterns is not a legal one, it is a moral one.

A quilt designer has spent a long time planning the design, making it, getting the pattern tested, invested money in printing and advertising, spent time persuading shops and distributors to sell her product – all very hard work and sometimes very frustrating. She has invested. Then it is effectively ‘stolen’ by people publishing, copying, sharing etc. She gets nothing back if you do that. So why should she ever bother again? We get our best patterns by designers working to put something great together for us. Don’t ruin it by refusing to support them

Easter Bunny – Patchwork Bunny Panel

I had a lot of fun making this bunny panel

Patchwork_Bunny_panel

I used Quilters fusible grid, to make sure my squares were accurate.

820P

I cut scraps into 2″ squares and placed them, right side up, on the fusible side of the grid, lining up the squares.

TIP – I usually do this on the ironing board, I place a piece of white paper or fabric underneath – this makes the grid easier to see.

I fused the squares in place (I used 42 squares (6 x 7) with a medium iron, pressing gently.

TIP – cut the grid to exactly the size you plan to cover with fabric – this reduces the risk of getting the iron stuck to the fusible grid

I folded the fused squares on to each other, one row at a time and stitched a 1/4″ seam down all the verticals.

Then I snipped those stitches seams with fine scissors between the squares , this allowed me to push the seam allowances in different directions so that they ‘nested’

I then sewed the horizontal seams with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

You can download the pattern of the bunny here Bunny_Outline

 

I traced the bunny design onto the smooth side of fusible Vilene  I placed this onto the right side of my patchwork and stitched with a small stitch all the way around the bunny. I then trimmed back to this seam leaving a small allowance (1/4″). I snipped the curves and the indents.

The next bit is scary! I cut into the Vilene in the centre and very carefully turned the bunny out, so its raw edges were folded under by the vilene. Be careful to ease out the seams and snip into the seam allowance at any area you feel is ‘pulling’ Be careful not to cut through the outer stitching. If you do, turn the bunny back and re sew the seam.

Once done position your bunny onto a background piece of fabric – mine was 12 1/2″ square. You can then iron the Bunny in place, as the fusible of the Vilene is now underneath

Stitch the Bunny to the background by hand or machine.  By hand you can use a small slip stitch or an invisible ladder stitch, By machine you could use a zig zag, a satin stitch, a blanket stitch or I used a blind hemming stitch and invisible thread.

I added a border to my block of squares .

I am now ready to quilt it and turn it into a Wall Hanging or Cushion front. You could embroider flowers, Easter eggs or carrots around your Spring Friend!

 

Have fun and email me pics of your bunnies!

 

 

 

 

12″ Block 9 Patch Star

This block is a Twist on the Friendship Star – I have heard it called ‘Ribbon Block’

These are ideas for our 2017 Charity Block Swap

Ribbpn_Block_Blue_Cream

A 1/4″ Seam is used throughout

From Dark Blue

Cut 2 squares 4 7/8″ (cut in half diagonally to make 4 Triangles)
Cut 1 Square 45 1/2″

From Cream

Cut 4 Squares 4 7/8″ (Cut in half diagonally top make 8 Triangles)

From Light Blue

Cut 2 squares 4 7/8″ (cut in half diagonally to make 4 Triangles)

Construction

Join each cream triangle to a blue triangle (light and dark) Right sides together. Press seam to the dark side – makes 8 Half Square Triangles (HST) (4 with Dark blue, 4 with light blue)

Half_Square_Triangle

Lay out block  with square in the centre- see image above

then sew squares in 3 rows of 3 then join rows together nesting seams ( seams should rest in opposite directions to reduce bulk at the points.)

Below are a couple of different layouts with the same units

Changed_Ribbon_Block_Blue_Cream2             Changed_Ribbon_Block_Blue_Cream3

 

 

Blue and Cream Block Idea 2

Hour_Glass

 

12″ Hour Glass Block

A 1/4″ Seam is used throughout

From Cream

Cut  1 Square 6 7/8″ – cut in half diagonally to make 2 Triangles

Cut 4 Squares  3 1/2″

From Light Blue

Cut  1 Square 6 7/8″ – cut in half diagonally to make 2 Triangles

From Dark Blue

Cut 4 Squares  3 1/2″

Construction

Using Light Blue and Cream Triangles

Make Half square triangle blocks – using 2 large triangles 1 blue and 1 cream sew Right Sides together. Press seam to the dark side, trim ‘ears’. Make 2 of these.

Half_Square_Triangle

 

Using Dark Blue and Cream Squares make a four-Patch Block – make 2 of these

Four_Patch

 

Lay out block using diagram above as a guide. Sew in rows, then join the rows together, nesting seams (one to the right the other to the left to minimize bulk at the points).

Press well. Your block should now measure 12.5″ raw edge to raw edge

 

 

Blue and Cream Patchwork Block Idea

ohiotwist

This fun twist on an Ohio Star is a great block to do

A 1/4″ seam is used throughout

From Blue

Cut 2 Squares 5 1/8″ – cut in half on the diagonal twice (8 Triangles)

Cut 2 square 4 7/8″ – cut in half on the diagonal (4 Triangles – one will be wasted)

Cut 1 square 4 1/2″

From Cream

Cut 2 Squares 5 1/8″ – cut in half on the diagonal twice (8 Triangles)

Cut 2 square 4 7/8″ – cut in half on the diagonal (4 Triangles – one will be wasted)

Cut 1 square 4 1/2″

Construction

Hour_GlaSS_dIAGRAM

Make 4 Hour glass blocks –  using 2 small triangles of blue and 2 small of cream (Cut from the 5 1/8″ squares) -Sew in Pairs (1 blue/ 1 Cream) Right sides together.Press seam to the dark side, then join the pairs to make one block, trim ‘ears’ – repeat 3 more times – see diagram

hALF_sQURE_dIAGRAM

Make Half square triangle blocks – using 2 large triangles 1 blue and 1 cream sew Right Sides together. Press seam to the dark side, trim ‘ears’. Make 3 of these.

Lay out block using diagram above as a guide. Sew in rows, then join the rows together, nesting seams (one to the right the other to the left to minimize bulk at the points).

Press well. Your block should now measure 12.5″ raw edge to raw edge

 

Threads and Patches Charity Block Swap

Join Threads and Patches Charity Block Swap. Make as many blocks as you wish and bring them in to the shop during  June and July 2017.

Blue_cream_Block_2

How does this work?

Make a quilt block using any design of your choosing – it can be very simple or very complex, it can be pieced or applique.

We are raising money for Macmillan Cancer relief, so ask that you make a £2 donation in order to join the Block Swap when you bring your first blocks in. You can bring all your blocks in one go, or as you make them, it is up to you.

 

  1. Your blocks should be a 12″ square block (so 12.5″ raw edge to raw edge)
  2. Your block should be in Blue and/or Cream. If some of your blue fabrics have other colours in that is OK so long as blue is the dominant colour. Please try and avoid white as this will shout against any cream in the blocks.
  3. Your block/s must be brought to the shop (please do not post- this is a walk in block swap) any time during June or July 2017.
  4. Each block should be labelled with your name , or if you prefer to be anonymous a code number.
  5. You will be given a receipt for your blocks.
  6. During the first week of August we shall share out the blocks. You will get the same number back that you handed in, but they will be from different people.
  7. Mid August onward come in and collect your blocks
  8. We would encourage you to make something with your blocks if you only have a few it could be cushions or a bag. If it is several (we suggest 6 is a good number) you could make a quilt!
  9. Bring your completed project to Threads and Patches during October and we shall hold a charity coffee morning (day) when the projects will be on display  on Saturday 28th October at the shop.

Ideas for Blocks

Each week Sally will post some simple (and a few more complex) ideas for quilt blocks plus the instructions how to make. So make sure you follow this blog to keep in touch with what is happening.

Happy stitching and we look forward to seeing you soon!

 

Shoo Fly Block Tutorial

The first block of this sampler is a simple 9″ Shoo Fly Block

Shoo_Fly_OutlineShoo_Fly_Colour

You will need 2 fabrics to make this block, it is best if they are tonally different – so one is darker than the other, if you put two fabrics together that have similar value then the design created by the patchwork may get lost and not be so visible.

Fabric you will need  for this block 

  1. 1 strip 4″ x 26″
  2. 1 strip 4″ x 13″

About This Block

This is a ‘Nine Patch’ Block, meaning it is made up of 5 segments. In this case there are 5 segments that are cut as squares (4 of fabric 1 and 1 of fabric 2)

and there are 4 segments that are Half Square Triangles ( a Square of 2 half triangles, Fabrics 1 and 2

You construct the half Square triangles first.

Half-Square-Triangle-Diagram1Half_square_Triangles-Units

  1. Cut 2 squares 3 7/8″ – fabric 1
  2. Cut 2 Squares 3 7/8″ from fabric 2
  3. Place the different fabrics Right Sides Together so light on dark (do this so the wrong side of the light fabric is uppermost
  4. Draw a diagonal line across the wrong side of the light fabrics with either a removable fabric marker or very light pencil.
  5. Draw two lines either side of this central line 1/4″ away. Make sure you check that the line marked accurately, if it is too close to the line your squares will be too big (this can be fixed!) , if it is too far away your squares will be too small (difficult to fix!)
  6. Using a flat foot on your machine (I like the open zig zag or satin stitch foot on my Janome) and with a stitch length of 2.2 – 2.5 stitch the two outermost lines. I prefer to chain stitch (feed one in after another without cutting the thread).
  7. When both the outer lines are sewn, cut down the centre line with your scissors or with a rotary cutter
  8. Press the Half Square Triangles from the front pushing the seam towards the darker fabric. Trim off the ‘ears’.  Re measure this square, it should measure 3 1/2″
  9. Lay out the block now, in 3 rows of 3 squares. Use the diagram above to help you with the layout
  10. Join the squares together with an accurate 1/4″ seam, press the seams towards the central plain squares on the top and bottom row, press the seams outwards on the middle row.
  11. Join the rows together lining up the seams and letting them ‘nest’ against each other. Stitch the rows together with a 1/4″ seam. Press these seams open.
  12. Re measure your block, when pressed it should measure 9 1/2″

Well done you have finished the first block of the sampler!

 

 

If you are interested in the history of this block there is information on this here

 

Free Quilt Blocks from Threads and Patches

Customer_sampler_1           Customer_Sampler_2014_SB

Over the last few years Sally has run a ‘Saturday Sampler’ Quilt course, these were usually her own designs and were made block by block into quilts over the year. As many of these designs have been very successful Threads and Patches has decided to share them here, so starting in the next week you will be able to access and download the patterns for the blocks for Sallys’ 2014 Saturday Sampler . this was originally constructed in burgundy and grey fabrics but would work well in any complimentary colours, or even as a scrappy quilt.

 

 

Customer_Sampler_2014_PB       Customer_Sampler_2014_AP

You can see from the examples of quilts made by our customers with the same fabrics how diverse they can look

Over the next few weeks I shall be adding the instructions for these blocks  to this blog, you will be able to download them  and follow them at your own pace.

I used 6 different burgundy fabrics and 5 or 6 different pale grey fabrics, plus I needed burgundy embroidery thread and grey embroidery thread.  Many of our customers embellished their quilts with beads and buttons . There is some embroidery on some of the designs but many of the participants enjoyed adding extra embroidery throughout the quilt.

I would love to see what you make so please email me your work at threadsandpatches@gmail.com and I shall incorporate as many as I can in to the blog posts.

Follow our blog to make sure you don’t miss any of the blocks. I look forward to creating a fun quilt along side you.

 

 

 

Feathered Star Medallion Quilt – Part 1

This is the centre of my Mystery Medallion Quilt

Download the Foundation Pattern Here

Here is the numbering layout

The sections are constructed individually and then put together in the following order

When all pieces are together join in the following order

  1. Join F to G section                                                    1a. Join L to K
  2. Join F/G to H Section                                                2a. Join l/K to M
  3. Join F/G/H to B Section   (set aside)                      3a. Join L/K/M to J

4.Join D to E                                                                   4a. Join L/K/M/J to N

  1. Join D/E to F/G/H/B                                                 5a.Join L/K/M/J/N to I
  2. Join C to D/E/F/G/H/B – Top Row Done!           6a Bottom Row Done!
  3. Join P to O From the straight edge – stitch down to seam between O2 and O1 leave remainder of seam open.
  4. Join PO to Q stitching from straight edge – stitch down to seam between Q6 and Q7
  5. Join R to P/O/Q
  6. Join T to S From the straight edge – stitch down to seam between S2 and S1 leave remainder of seam open.
  7. Join  U to T/S From the straight edge – stitch down to seam between U2 and U1 leave remainder of seam open

12 Join V to T/S/U

13 Join T/S/U/V to A – Middle Row done!

Joining rows

Initially move the side setting triangle pieces P and T away from stitching and stitch the 2 long seams . It should be possible to move them away prodided to stopped stitching early on previous seams (7, 8, 9 & 10)

Go back and complete these inset seams – O/B to P, Q/J to P, U/I to T,C/S to T

Press well and remove papers.

Part 2 coming soon

labels: free patterns